Pedals & Paddles Bike Repair PEDALS & PADDLES BIKE REPAIR

Flats & wheels

Flat tires and wheel service

A flat is a twenty-five-dollar job and it stops the bike completely, which is a bad combination — plenty of bikes sit in garages for a whole season over one flat tire. Flats and wheel work are the fastest things I do. A tube goes in while you wait, a wheel gets trued in about fifteen minutes, and neither needs to be scheduled a week out. The one thing worth doing properly is finding out why it went flat, because a tube installed over the thorn that caused the first flat will be flat again by the weekend.

Every price on this page is labor. Tubes, tires, sealant, and spokes are quoted separately and you approve them before they go on your bike.

A turquoise fat bike with oversized studded tyres parked in packed snow on a Colorado trail, with a frosted hillside and houses in the distance.

01

Symptoms, causes, and what it costs

What you're noticingWhat's usually causing itWhat it takes
Flat again a few days after the last repairThe thorn or wire is still embedded in the tire casing and punctured the new tubeFlat repair $25, tube extra — and I run a finger through the whole casing before the new tube goes in, every time
Two small holes side by side in the tubePinch flat. The tire was underinflated and the tube got crushed between the rim edge and whatever you hitFlat repair $25. Worth a conversation about the pressure you're running
Soft every morning, fine after you pump itSlow leak at the valve or a porous tube, or a tubeless tire whose sealant has dried outFlat repair $25. If it's tubeless, a fresh setup and reseal is $25 per tire plus supplies
Recurring punctures on the shoulder of the roadGoathead thorns. They're everywhere along the Front Range and they don't care how new your tire isTire and tube replacement $30 per wheel; a tubeless setup at $25 per tire plus supplies handles them far better
The front wheel rubs on one side of the brake as it spinsThe wheel is out of true laterally, or it isn't seated squarely in the dropoutsWheel true $30 per wheel. Reseating costs nothing and I'll check it first
You can see the rim swing side to side from aboveUneven spoke tension, usually from a pothole, a curb, or a long-neglected wheelWheel true $30 per wheel
A ping noise on a ride, and then the wheel started wobblingA broken spoke. The wheel loses tension on one side immediatelySpoke replacement plus retensioning. Not a flat-rate job — get in touch and I'll tell you what it needs
A flat spot or dent in the rim after hitting something hardThe rim is deformed, not just out of trueNeeds to be looked at. Sometimes it trues out, sometimes the wheel isn't worth saving — I'll tell you which honestly
A bulge or a visible cut in the tire sidewallThe casing is cut through. A tube will push out of it and blowTire and tube replacement $30 per wheel, tire extra. Don't ride it
Tubeless tire loses air suddenly on rough groundThe tire unseated ("burped") from the rim, usually at low pressureTubeless setup $25 per tire plus supplies — reseat, retape if needed, fresh sealant

02

Flat repair

The tube itself is the easy part. What takes the time is the diagnosis: I inflate the old tube, find the hole, and use its position to work out where in the tire the object went in. A puncture on the outside of the tread is debris. Two holes on the inner face is a pinch flat, which means pressure. A hole on the rim side of the tube usually means the rim tape has failed and a spoke end is chewing through — and that will keep happening until the tape gets replaced.

Flat repair is $25 with the tube extra. If the tire is worn through or cut, tire and tube replacement is $30 per wheel. Flats are usually same-day.

The pressure conversation is worth having. Most flats I see are underinflation, and most people run road tires much softer than the sidewall calls for because a soft tire feels comfortable. A floor pump with a gauge and thirty seconds a week prevents more flats than any tire I could sell you.

03

Tubeless

Tubeless setups run the tire sealed directly against the rim with liquid sealant inside instead of a tube. When a thorn goes in, the sealant plugs the hole while you're still riding and you often never know it happened. For mountain bikes on Front Range trails — which is to say, in goathead country, on rocky ground, at pressures low enough to grip — it's a genuine improvement rather than an upgrade for its own sake. It isn't a mountain-bike-only service, though. Road, gravel, and commuter wheels get set up the same way, at the same price per tire.

Tubeless setup is $25 per tire plus supplies and materials, whatever kind of bike it's on. Your wheel and tire both have to be tubeless-compatible, and I'll check that before you commit to anything.

The maintenance nobody mentions: sealant dries out, and it dries out faster in dry air than the bottle's estimate assumes. Colorado is dry air. Plan on refreshing it a couple of times a season rather than once a year, and if a tubeless tire has started going soft overnight, dried sealant is the first thing to check.

04

Truing and spokes

A wheel is a tensioned structure. The rim is held in a circle by the pull of every spoke against every other one, and when one spoke loses tension the rim pulls toward the opposite side. That's what a wobble is — not a bent rim, usually, just an unbalanced pull. Truing means adjusting spoke tension a quarter turn at a time until the rim runs straight again in the stand.

Lateral truing — side to side, the kind you notice as brake rub — is $30 per wheel. A wheel that has been ridden out of true for a long time takes longer to bring back, because the spokes have taken a set, but the price is the price.

A broken spoke is a different job. The replacement has to match the length, the wheel has to come back to even tension, and if a spoke broke at the elbow on an older wheel, others usually follow within a few months. That work isn't on the flat-rate menu — get in touch, tell me what the wheel is, and I'll tell you what it needs and what it costs before you commit.

05

When a wheel isn't worth saving

Not every wheel should be repaired, and it costs you money when someone pretends otherwise. A wheel is finished when:

  • The rim braking surface has worn concave, which you can feel with a fingernail. It will eventually split under pressure and that's a serious failure.
  • There's a flat spot or a crease in the rim from an impact. It might true acceptably, but the metal is fatigued at that point.
  • Spokes are breaking one after another. The wheel has reached the end of its fatigue life and each replacement buys weeks.
  • The cost of the repair approaches the cost of a comparable wheel — which happens quickly on entry-level machine-built wheels.

I'll tell you plainly which of these applies. On a bike where the wheel is worth more than the frame, saying so is the useful answer.

06

Prices

JobLabor
Flat repair, tube installed$25 (tube extra)
Tire and tube replacement$30 per wheel (parts extra)
Tubeless setup$25 per tire (plus supplies)
Wheel true, lateral$30 per wheel

Spoke replacement, wheel building, and anything involving a damaged rim get looked at and quoted first. Estimates are free.

07

FAQ

Can I get a flat fixed the same day?

Usually, yes. Flats and quick adjustments are the work that jumps the queue, because they're the difference between a bike being ridden this weekend and not.

Why does my tire keep going flat?

Nine times out of ten the object is still in the tire. Thorns and wire fragments break off flush with the tread and are almost invisible; you find them by running a finger slowly around the inside of the casing. The other common causes are underinflation, which causes pinch flats, and failed rim tape, which punctures the tube from the rim side.

Is tubeless worth it for the riding around here?

On a mountain bike, generally yes — goatheads and rocky ground are exactly the conditions it's good at. On a road or commuter bike it's a bigger commitment for a smaller gain, and a good puncture-resistant tire with a tube does most of the same job for less hassle. I'll set up any tubeless-compatible wheel you bring me, on any bike — I'll just give you the straight answer about your bike first, rather than sell you the upgrade.

My bike won't roll. How do I get it to you?

That's what the mobile visit is for — a flat is the one repair where getting the bike to a shop is harder than the repair itself. I'll come to you in Castle Rock and Castle Pines, out to Franktown, Sedalia and Larkspur, and up into Parker and Highlands Ranch. If it's easier to load it up, you can drop it at the garage in Castle Rock instead. Say which you'd prefer when you book and I'll send the details.

Mobile & drop-off

Getting the bike to me.

I cover Castle Rock, Castle Pines, Franktown, Sedalia, Larkspur, Parker and Highlands Ranch. Quick jobs get done on site; anything that needs the stand comes back to the shop and goes home when it’s finished.

How mobile and pickup work

Towns covered

  • Castle Rock
  • Castle Pines
  • Franktown
  • Sedalia
  • Larkspur
  • Parker
  • Highlands Ranch

Drop-off details and directions come with your booking confirmation.

09 — Book

What’s it doing?

Tell me what the tire or wheel is doing, and whether you'd rather drop off or have me come to you. You'll hear back within 1 business day — and if you're off the bike and need it back fast, call or text rather than waiting on the form.

Rather talk? (303) 667-1426

No spam, no mailing list. Just a reply. Got a photo of the problem? Mention it in the box above, or call (303) 667-1426.